/* ============================================================
   七十二湯 — The Seventy-Two Waters
   paper on dark forest · ink · murasaki plum
   ============================================================ */

@font-face {
  font-family: 'Shippori Mincho';
  src: url('../fonts/ShipporiMincho-Regular.woff2') format('woff2');
  font-weight: 400; font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: 'Shippori Mincho';
  src: url('../fonts/ShipporiMincho-Medium.woff2') format('woff2');
  font-weight: 500; font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: 'EB Garamond';
  src: url('../fonts/EBGaramond.woff2') format('woff2');
  font-weight: 400 700; font-style: normal; font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: 'EB Garamond';
  src: url('../fonts/EBGaramond-Italic.woff2') format('woff2');
  font-weight: 400 700; font-style: italic; font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: 'Zen Kaku Gothic New';
  src: url('../fonts/ZenKakuGothicNew-Regular.woff2') format('woff2');
  font-weight: 400; font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: 'Zen Kaku Gothic New';
  src: url('../fonts/ZenKakuGothicNew-Medium.woff2') format('woff2');
  font-weight: 500; font-display: swap;
}

:root {
  --paper: #FBFAF7;
  --paper-2: #F3F1EA;
  --ink: #26232B;
  --ink-80: rgba(38, 35, 43, .82);
  --ink-60: rgba(38, 35, 43, .60);
  --ink-45: rgba(38, 35, 43, .45);
  --ink-30: rgba(38, 35, 43, .30);
  --hairline: rgba(38, 35, 43, .16);
  --hairline-soft: rgba(38, 35, 43, .09);
  --plum: #574768;
  --plum-deep: #332B3B;
  --plum-ghost: rgba(87, 71, 104, .08);
  --wisteria: #8B7A9E;
  --sea: rgba(56, 70, 92, .05);
  --serif: 'EB Garamond', 'Iowan Old Style', Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;
  --jp: 'Shippori Mincho', 'Hiragino Mincho ProN', 'Yu Mincho', serif;
  --util: 'Zen Kaku Gothic New', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic ProN', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;
  --pad-x: clamp(22px, 5vw, 72px);
}

* { margin: 0; padding: 0; box-sizing: border-box; }

html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }

body {
  background: #10160F;
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 17px;
  line-height: 1.72;
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
  text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;
}

/* ---------- dark forest atmosphere behind the sheet ---------- */
.atmosphere {
  position: fixed; inset: 0; z-index: -1;
  background:
    radial-gradient(42% 34% at 82% 12%, rgba(74, 104, 74, .38), transparent 70%),
    radial-gradient(38% 30% at 12% 20%, rgba(56, 86, 60, .32), transparent 70%),
    radial-gradient(50% 42% at 70% 78%, rgba(38, 62, 44, .45), transparent 72%),
    radial-gradient(30% 26% at 30% 88%, rgba(64, 92, 64, .25), transparent 70%),
    linear-gradient(160deg, #182119 0%, #10170F 38%, #0C120C 100%);
}
.atmosphere::after {
  content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 0;
  background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='240' height='240'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='0.9' numOctaves='2'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='240' height='240' filter='url(%23n)' opacity='0.5'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  opacity: .06; mix-blend-mode: overlay;
}

/* ---------- the paper sheet ---------- */
.sheet {
  max-width: 1560px;
  margin: clamp(10px, 1.6vw, 22px) auto;
  background: var(--paper);
  border-radius: 12px;
  overflow: clip;
  box-shadow: 0 30px 80px rgba(0, 0, 0, .45);
  width: calc(100% - clamp(16px, 3vw, 44px));
}

/* ---------- utility type ---------- */
.eyebrow {
  font-family: var(--util);
  font-size: 10.5px;
  font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .30em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--ink-60);
}

/* ---------- header ---------- */
.site-head {
  display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: flex-start;
  padding: clamp(26px, 3.4vw, 48px) var(--pad-x) 0;
}
.wordmark { text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); }
.wordmark-jp {
  font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500;
  writing-mode: vertical-rl;
  font-size: 21px; letter-spacing: .42em;
  display: inline-block;
}
.site-nav { display: flex; gap: clamp(20px, 3vw, 44px); padding-top: 6px; }
.site-nav a {
  text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink);
  display: inline-flex; align-items: baseline; gap: 9px;
  border-bottom: 1px solid transparent;
  padding-bottom: 3px;
  transition: border-color .3s ease;
}
.site-nav a span { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 12.5px; letter-spacing: .18em; color: var(--ink-60); }
.site-nav a em {
  font-style: normal; font-family: var(--util);
  font-size: 10.5px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .26em; text-transform: uppercase;
}
.site-nav a:hover, .site-nav a:focus-visible { border-color: var(--ink); }

/* ---------- hero ---------- */
.hero {
  position: relative;
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(300px, 5fr) minmax(320px, 6fr);
  align-items: center;
  gap: clamp(24px, 4vw, 80px);
  padding: clamp(48px, 7vw, 110px) var(--pad-x) clamp(70px, 8vw, 130px);
  min-height: min(86vh, 900px);
}
.hero-title { position: relative; justify-self: center; text-align: center; }
.hero-title h1 {
  font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500;
  writing-mode: vertical-rl;
  font-size: clamp(80px, 10vw, 140px);
  letter-spacing: .14em;
  line-height: 1;
  margin: 0 auto;
  position: relative; z-index: 1;
}
.hero-reading {
  font-family: var(--jp);
  writing-mode: vertical-rl;
  font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: .5em; color: var(--ink-45);
  position: absolute; top: 12px; right: -34px;
}
.hero-steam {
  position: absolute; left: 50%; bottom: -8%;
  width: clamp(150px, 16vw, 220px);
  transform: translateX(-50%);
  z-index: 0; overflow: visible;
}
.hs {
  fill: none; stroke: var(--plum); stroke-width: 1.4; stroke-linecap: round;
  opacity: 0;
  animation: steam-drift 7s ease-in-out infinite;
}
.hs2 { animation-delay: 2.2s; }
.hs3 { animation-delay: 4.4s; }
@keyframes steam-drift {
  0%   { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(26px); }
  25%  { opacity: .34; }
  60%  { opacity: .16; }
  100% { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(-52px); }
}

.hero-copy { max-width: 560px; }
.hero-line {
  font-size: clamp(30px, 3.2vw, 44px);
  font-style: italic; font-weight: 400;
  line-height: 1.18;
  margin: 20px 0 26px;
}
.hero-para { color: var(--ink-80); max-width: 33.5em; }
.hero-tag {
  font-family: var(--jp);
  font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: .32em; color: var(--ink-60);
  margin-top: 30px;
}
.hero-foot {
  position: absolute; left: var(--pad-x); bottom: clamp(26px, 3.4vw, 44px);
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10px; font-weight: 400;
  letter-spacing: .22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  max-width: 60%;
}

/* circular outline button — after the reference */
.circle-btn {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;
  width: 104px; height: 104px;
  border: 1px solid var(--ink-45); border-radius: 50%;
  text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink);
  text-align: center;
  margin-top: 44px;
  transition: background-color .4s ease, border-color .4s ease, color .4s ease;
}
.circle-btn span {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; line-height: 2;
}
.circle-btn em { font-style: normal; font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: .3em; color: var(--ink-60); }
.circle-btn:hover, .circle-btn:focus-visible {
  background: var(--plum); border-color: var(--plum); color: var(--paper);
}
.circle-btn:hover em, .circle-btn:focus-visible em { color: rgba(251, 250, 247, .75); }

/* entrance */
.rise { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(22px); animation: rise 1.1s cubic-bezier(.2, .65, .25, 1) forwards; }
.r1 { animation-delay: .1s; } .r2 { animation-delay: .35s; } .r3 { animation-delay: .45s; }
.r4 { animation-delay: .58s; } .r5 { animation-delay: .72s; } .r6 { animation-delay: .86s; }
@keyframes rise { to { opacity: 1; transform: none; } }

/* ---------- section headers ---------- */
.sec-head {
  display: flex; align-items: flex-start; gap: clamp(26px, 3.4vw, 56px);
  padding: clamp(60px, 7vw, 110px) var(--pad-x) clamp(36px, 4vw, 60px);
}
.sec-kanji {
  font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500;
  writing-mode: vertical-rl;
  font-size: clamp(30px, 3vw, 40px);
  letter-spacing: .3em; line-height: 1;
  border-right: 1px solid var(--hairline);
  padding-right: clamp(16px, 2vw, 28px);
  flex: none;
}
.sec-intro { max-width: 520px; padding-top: 4px; }
.sec-lede { margin-top: 14px; color: var(--ink-80); font-size: 16.5px; }

/* ---------- map section ---------- */
.map-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(320px, 420px) 1fr;
  gap: clamp(28px, 3.5vw, 64px);
  padding: 0 var(--pad-x) clamp(60px, 7vw, 100px);
  align-items: start;
}
.map-side { position: relative; }

.route-card {
  position: sticky; top: 18px; z-index: 6;
  background: var(--paper);
  border: 1px solid var(--hairline);
  border-radius: 8px;
  padding: 22px 24px 24px;
  height: 340px;
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  box-shadow: 0 12px 34px rgba(38, 35, 43, .07);
}
.rc-eyebrow {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline;
}
.rc-eyebrow .rc-num { color: var(--plum); font-size: 11px; }
.rc-name {
  display: flex; align-items: baseline; gap: 12px;
  margin: 10px 0 2px;
}
.rc-name .rc-kanji { font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500; font-size: 30px; letter-spacing: .1em; }
.rc-name .rc-en { font-size: 21px; font-style: italic; color: var(--ink-80); }
.rc-corridor { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10.5px; letter-spacing: .12em; color: var(--ink-60); margin-bottom: 14px; }
.rc-tagline { font-style: italic; font-size: 16.5px; color: var(--ink-80); border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft); padding-top: 12px; }
.rc-stats { display: flex; gap: 26px; margin-top: 14px; }
.rc-stat b {
  display: block; font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .26em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45); margin-bottom: 3px;
}
.rc-stat span { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 13.5px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .02em; }
.rc-journey {
  margin-top: 12px;
  padding-top: 10px;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
}
.rc-journey-label {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 8.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .26em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  margin-bottom: 4px;
}
.rc-journey ol { list-style: none; }
.rc-route-leg {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 72px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 8px;
  align-items: start; padding: 3px 0;
}
.rc-route-mode {
  position: relative; padding-left: 17px;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 8px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  line-height: 1.6;
}
.rc-route-mode::before {
  content: ''; position: absolute; left: 0; top: .65em; width: 10px;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink-60);
}
.rc-route-leg.is-bs .rc-route-mode::before { border-top-style: dashed; }
.rc-route-leg.is-sk .rc-route-mode::before { border-top-width: 3px; margin-top: -1px; }
.rc-route-copy { min-width: 0; font-family: var(--util); line-height: 1.35; }
.rc-route-copy b {
  display: block; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;
  font-size: 10.5px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .04em; color: var(--ink-80);
}
.rc-route-copy span {
  display: block; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;
  font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: .03em; color: var(--ink-45);
}
.rc-go {
  display: inline-block; margin-top: auto;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .28em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--plum); text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(87, 71, 104, .4); padding-bottom: 2px;
  align-self: flex-start;
}
.rc-go:hover, .rc-go:focus-visible { border-color: var(--plum); }
.rc-idle-legend { margin-top: 14px; border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft); padding-top: 14px; }

/* list of springs */
.onsen-list { margin-top: 26px; }
.ol-group {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  padding: 22px 2px 8px;
  display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline;
}
.ol-group span { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: none; }
.ol-row {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 34px auto 1fr auto;
  align-items: baseline; gap: 10px;
  width: 100%;
  padding: 9px 2px;
  background: none; border: none; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
  font: inherit; color: inherit; text-align: left; cursor: pointer;
  transition: background-color .25s ease;
}
.ol-row:hover { background: var(--plum-ghost); }
.ol-row:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--plum); outline-offset: -2px; }
.ol-num { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .1em; color: var(--ink-45); }
.ol-kanji { font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500; font-size: 16.5px; letter-spacing: .12em; }
.ol-en { font-size: 14.5px; font-style: italic; color: var(--ink-60); overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap; }
.ol-time { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10.5px; letter-spacing: .06em; color: var(--ink-60); }
.ol-row.is-active { border-bottom-color: var(--plum); }
.ol-row.is-active .ol-num, .ol-row.is-active .ol-kanji { color: var(--plum); }
.ol-row.is-active .ol-en { color: var(--plum); }

/* map pane */
/* The plate is a 802×940 portrait engraving — taller than it is wide, and taller
   than most screens. Cap its width so the derived height (plus the key beneath it)
   always clears the fold: the whole plate is legible at once, Nasushiobara to Izu.
   Slack falls into the gutter, keeping the plate's right edge on the page margin. */
.map-pane {
  position: sticky;
  top: var(--map-top);
  --map-top: 18px;
  --map-key: 28px;   /* the key row below the plate */
  --map-tail: 14px;  /* breathing room under the key */
  width: min(100%, max(400px,
    calc((100svh - var(--map-top) - var(--map-key) - var(--map-tail)) * 802 / 940)));
  margin-left: auto;
}
.map-canvas svg { width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }

.map-legend {
  display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px 26px; justify-content: flex-end;
  padding: 10px 6px 0;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 400;
  letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-60);
}
.lg { position: relative; padding-left: 34px; white-space: nowrap; }
.lg::before { content: ''; position: absolute; left: 0; top: 50%; width: 26px; }
.lg-shink::before { border-top: 3px solid var(--ink); margin-top: -2px; }
.lg-shink::after {
  content: ''; position: absolute; left: 0; top: 50%; margin-top: -1px;
  width: 26px; border-top: 1px dashed var(--paper);
}
.lg-rail::before { border-top: 1px solid var(--ink); }
.lg-bus::before { border-top: 1px dashed var(--ink-60); }

.noscript-note { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 11px; color: var(--ink-60); padding: 12px 4px; }

/* --- svg internals (classes used by js-built map) --- */
.m-sea-label { font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 12px; fill: var(--ink-30); letter-spacing: .12em; }
.m-grid { stroke: var(--ink); stroke-opacity: .055; stroke-width: .7; }
.m-grid-label { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 7.5px; fill: var(--ink-30); letter-spacing: .12em; }
.m-coast { fill: var(--paper); stroke: rgba(38, 35, 43, .38); stroke-width: 1; }
.m-lake { fill: var(--sea); stroke: rgba(38, 35, 43, .25); stroke-width: .6; }
.m-fuji { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink-45); stroke-width: 1; }
.m-fuji-label { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 8.5px; fill: var(--ink-45); letter-spacing: .18em; }

.net-rail { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-opacity: .38; stroke-width: 1; stroke-linejoin: round; stroke-linecap: round; }
.net-shink { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-opacity: .55; stroke-width: 2.6; stroke-linejoin: round; stroke-linecap: round; }
.net-shink-tick { fill: none; stroke: var(--paper); stroke-width: 1; stroke-dasharray: 5 5; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.net-bus { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-opacity: .42; stroke-width: 1; stroke-dasharray: 2.5 3.5; stroke-linecap: round; }

.ovl { fill: none; stroke: var(--plum); stroke-linejoin: round; stroke-linecap: round; pointer-events: none; }
.ovl-rl { stroke-width: 1.8; }
.ovl-sk { stroke-width: 3; }
.ovl-bs { stroke-width: 1.6; stroke-dasharray: 3 4; }

.jn-dot { fill: var(--paper); stroke: var(--ink-45); stroke-width: 1; }
.jn-label { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 7px; letter-spacing: .14em; fill: var(--ink-45); text-transform: uppercase; }

.terminal-dot { fill: var(--ink); }
.terminal-label { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 11px; font-weight: 500; fill: var(--ink); letter-spacing: .2em; }
.terminal-sub { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 7.5px; letter-spacing: .26em; fill: var(--ink-60); }

.onsen-marker { cursor: pointer; }
.onsen-marker circle.om-ring { fill: var(--paper); stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.2; transition: fill .3s ease, stroke .3s ease; }
.onsen-marker .om-steam path { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink-60); stroke-width: 1.1; stroke-linecap: round; transition: stroke .3s ease; }
.onsen-marker .om-num { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 8px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .08em; fill: var(--ink-45); }
.onsen-marker .om-kanji { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 12.5px; font-weight: 500; fill: var(--ink); letter-spacing: .1em; }
.onsen-marker .om-en { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 7.5px; letter-spacing: .2em; fill: var(--ink-60); text-transform: uppercase; }
.onsen-marker:focus { outline: none; }
.onsen-marker:focus-visible circle.om-ring { stroke: var(--plum); stroke-width: 2.4; }

.onsen-marker.is-active circle.om-ring { fill: var(--plum); stroke: var(--plum); }
.onsen-marker.is-active .om-kanji { fill: var(--plum); }
.onsen-marker.is-active .om-num { fill: var(--plum); }
.onsen-marker.is-active .om-en { fill: var(--plum); }
.onsen-marker.is-active .om-steam path { stroke: var(--plum); animation: marker-steam 2.6s ease-in-out infinite; }
.onsen-marker.is-active .om-steam path:nth-child(2) { animation-delay: .5s; }
.onsen-marker.is-active .om-steam path:nth-child(3) { animation-delay: 1s; }
@keyframes marker-steam {
  0%   { opacity: .2; transform: translateY(2.5px); }
  45%  { opacity: 1; }
  100% { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(-4px); }
}
.om-pulse { fill: none; stroke: var(--plum); opacity: 0; }
.onsen-marker.is-active .om-pulse { animation: pulse 2.8s ease-out infinite; }
@keyframes pulse {
  0% { opacity: .5; r: 6; }
  70% { opacity: 0; r: 20; }
  100% { opacity: 0; r: 20; }
}

/* dim the rest when a route is active */
svg.has-active .net-rail, svg.has-active .net-shink, svg.has-active .net-bus { stroke-opacity: .12; }
svg.has-active .net-shink-tick { stroke-opacity: .6; }
svg.has-active .onsen-marker:not(.is-active) { opacity: .38; }
svg.has-active .jn-label, svg.has-active .jn-dot { opacity: .5; }
.net-rail, .net-shink, .net-bus, .onsen-marker, .jn-label, .jn-dot { transition: stroke-opacity .45s ease, opacity .45s ease; }

.m-scale line { stroke: var(--ink-45); stroke-width: 1; }
.m-scale text { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 7.5px; fill: var(--ink-45); letter-spacing: .1em; }

/* ---------- dossiers ---------- */
.dossier {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(86px, 120px) minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(220px, 264px);
  gap: clamp(26px, 3.4vw, 60px);
  padding: clamp(44px, 5vw, 68px) var(--pad-x);
  border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline);
  margin: 0;
  scroll-margin-top: 20px;
}
.dossier:first-of-type { border-top: none; }

.d-side { display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: flex-start; gap: 18px; }
.d-num { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 11px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .22em; color: var(--plum); }

.d-kanji {
  font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500;
  writing-mode: vertical-rl;
  font-size: clamp(38px, 3.4vw, 50px);
  letter-spacing: .22em; line-height: 1.05;
}
.d-pref { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: .24em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45); writing-mode: vertical-rl; }

.d-main { min-width: 0; }
.d-name { display: flex; align-items: baseline; gap: 14px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.d-name h3 { font-size: clamp(26px, 2.4vw, 33px); font-weight: 500; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: .01em; }
.d-name .d-reading { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: .3em; color: var(--ink-45); }
.d-tagline { font-style: italic; font-size: 17.5px; color: var(--plum); margin: 8px 0 20px; }
.d-body p { max-width: 36em; color: var(--ink-80); margin-bottom: 14px; }

/* ---------- things to do ---------- */
.d-activities { margin: 26px 0 34px; max-width: 680px; }
.d-activities-head {
  display: flex; align-items: baseline; justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 12px 22px; flex-wrap: wrap;
  padding-bottom: 10px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline);
}
.d-activities-head h4 {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
}
.d-activities-head h4 span {
  font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: .2em;
  margin-left: 8px;
}
.d-activities-head p { font-style: italic; font-size: 14px; color: var(--ink-60); }
.d-activity-list {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: clamp(14px, 2vw, 24px); margin-top: 16px;
}
.d-activity-list.is-2 { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
.d-activity-list.is-1 { grid-template-columns: minmax(220px, 360px); }
.d-activity figure { margin: 0 0 11px; }
.d-activity img {
  display: block; width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover;
  border: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft); background: var(--paper-2);
}
.d-activity figcaption {
  min-height: 21px; margin-top: 6px;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 7.5px; font-weight: 400;
  line-height: 1.45; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--ink-45);
}
.d-activity-note { display: block; margin-bottom: 1px; color: var(--ink-60); }
.d-activity-credit { white-space: nowrap; }
.d-activity figcaption a {
  color: inherit; text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline); padding-bottom: 1px;
}
.d-activity figcaption a:hover, .d-activity figcaption a:focus-visible {
  color: var(--plum); border-color: var(--plum);
}
.d-activity h5 {
  font-size: 17px; font-weight: 500; font-style: italic;
  line-height: 1.3; letter-spacing: .01em; margin-bottom: 6px;
}
.d-activity h5 a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.d-activity h5 a span { color: var(--plum); font-style: normal; font-size: 12px; }
.d-activity h5 a:hover, .d-activity h5 a:focus-visible { color: var(--plum); }
.d-activity > p { font-size: 14.5px; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--ink-80); }

.d-bathe { margin: 26px 0 0; }
.d-bathe dt {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  margin-bottom: 10px;
}
.d-bathe dt span { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: .2em; color: var(--ink-45); margin-left: 8px; }
.d-bathe dd { padding: 7px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft); max-width: 36em; }
.d-bathe dd b { font-weight: 500; font-style: italic; font-size: 16.5px; letter-spacing: .01em; }
.d-bathe dd span { color: var(--ink-60); font-size: 15.5px; }

/* Stay recommendations — same specimen-list voice, with Michelin marks where applicable */
.d-stays dd b a {
  color: inherit; text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline); padding-bottom: 1px;
}
.d-stays dd b a:hover, .d-stays dd b a:focus-visible { color: var(--plum); border-color: var(--plum); }
.stay-external { color: inherit !important; font-size: .82em !important; }
.stay-ja {
  margin-left: 9px; font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 11px;
  font-weight: 400; font-style: normal; letter-spacing: .1em; color: var(--ink-45);
}
.stay-keys {
  display: inline-flex; gap: 2px; align-items: center;
  margin-left: 9px; vertical-align: -2px;
}
.mkey { width: 14px; height: 14px; display: block; }
.mkey circle, .mkey path { fill: none; stroke: var(--plum); stroke-width: 1.7; stroke-linecap: round; }
.stay-sel {
  font-style: normal; font-family: var(--util);
  font-size: 8.5px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .22em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--ink-45); margin-left: 9px;
}
.stay-level {
  display: inline-block; margin-left: 9px; font-family: var(--util);
  font-size: 8px; font-weight: 500; font-style: normal; letter-spacing: .16em;
  text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--plum); background: var(--plum-ghost);
  border-radius: 999px; padding: 2px 6px;
}
.stay-guide {
  display: inline-block; margin-left: 10px;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 8px !important; font-weight: 500;
  font-style: normal; letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--ink-45) !important; text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline); padding-bottom: 1px;
}
.stay-guide:hover, .stay-guide:focus-visible { color: var(--plum) !important; border-color: var(--plum); }

/* route ticket strip */
.d-route { margin-top: 30px; border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline); padding: 14px 0 12px; max-width: 620px; }
.d-route-line { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 0; flex-wrap: wrap; row-gap: 8px; }
.d-stop { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 11px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .14em; white-space: nowrap; }
.d-stop span { font-family: var(--jp); letter-spacing: .1em; margin-right: 5px; }
.d-leg { flex: 1 1 60px; min-width: 56px; position: relative; height: 14px; margin: 0 8px; }
.d-leg::before {
  content: ''; position: absolute; left: 0; right: 4px; top: 50%;
  transform: translateY(-50%);
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink-45);
}
.d-leg.is-bus::before { border-top-style: dashed; }
.d-leg.is-sk::before { border-top-width: 3px; }
.d-leg::after {
  content: ''; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 50%; transform: translateY(-50%);
  border-left: 5px solid var(--ink-45); border-top: 2.5px solid transparent; border-bottom: 2.5px solid transparent;
}
.d-leg i {
  position: absolute; left: 50%; top: -7px; transform: translateX(-50%);
  line-height: 1;
  font-family: var(--util); font-style: normal; font-size: 8.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-60); white-space: nowrap;
}
.d-route-meta {
  display: flex; gap: 22px; margin-top: 10px; flex-wrap: wrap;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10.5px; letter-spacing: .1em; color: var(--ink-80);
}
.d-route-meta b { font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .24em; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 9px; color: var(--ink-45); margin-right: 6px; }

/* right rail */
.d-rail { border-left: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft); padding-left: clamp(20px, 2vw, 32px); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 22px; }
.d-water { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 10px; }
.d-swatch {
  width: 78px; height: 78px; border-radius: 50%;
  box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 1px rgba(38, 35, 43, .12), inset 0 8px 18px rgba(255,255,255,.4);
  position: relative;
}
.d-swatch::after {
  content: ''; position: absolute; inset: -7px; border-radius: 50%;
  border: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
}
.d-rail h4 {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  margin-bottom: 6px;
}
.d-rail h4 span { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 10.5px; letter-spacing: .2em; margin-left: 7px; }
.d-rail p { font-size: 14.5px; line-height: 1.65; color: var(--ink-80); }
.d-rail .d-water-name { font-style: italic; font-size: 15.5px; color: var(--ink); }
.d-maplink {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .26em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--plum); text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(87,71,104,.35);
  align-self: flex-start; padding-bottom: 2px;
}
.d-maplink:hover, .d-maplink:focus-visible { border-color: var(--plum); }

/* water swatches */
.w-atami   { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #E9F1EE, #BAD5CF 68%, #A5C6BF); }
.w-yugawara{ background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #E8EDE4, #C2CFBD 68%, #AFC0AB); }
.w-ito     { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #F0EAD6, #DBC9A2 70%, #CBB68B); }
.w-shuzenji{ background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #E6EEE8, #B8CFC0 68%, #A3BFAD); }
.w-hakone  { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #F1F0EB, #D4D2C8 70%, #C4C2B7); }
.w-isawa   { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #F2EDD8, #DDD1A4 70%, #CEC08F); }
.w-yumura  { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #F0E8D8, #D8C2A0 70%, #C6AC85); }
.w-ikaho   { background: linear-gradient(100deg, #C9A15E 0 49.5%, #E2E0D8 50.5% 100%); }
.w-shima   { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #E2EEF1, #A9CBD4 68%, #8FBAC6); }
.w-kusatsu { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #F0F4EC, #BCD5C2 62%, #9FC3AA); }
.w-kinugawa{ background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #EFEFEA, #D0D5D0 70%, #BFC7C1); }
.w-yunishi { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #F5F5F3, #DBDFE2 70%, #C9D0D6); }
.w-shiobara{ background: conic-gradient(from 210deg, #D9C79A, #E8E4DA, #BFD3C2, #D9BE9E, #C2C8D0, #E4D9C2, #D9C79A); }
.w-bessho  { background: radial-gradient(circle at 38% 30%, #F0EDDC, #D6CFA8 70%, #C6BD92); }

/* ---------- further waters ---------- */
.discover {
  border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline);
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, var(--paper-2) 0, var(--paper) 26%, var(--paper) 100%);
}
.discover-tools {
  margin: 0 var(--pad-x) clamp(38px, 5vw, 64px);
  padding: 20px 22px;
  border: 1px solid var(--hairline);
  border-radius: 8px;
  background: rgba(251, 250, 247, .86);
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(230px, 1fr) minmax(0, 2fr) auto;
  align-items: end;
  gap: 18px 28px;
}
.discover-search span {
  display: block;
  margin-bottom: 7px;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .26em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
}
.discover-search input {
  width: 100%; border: none; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--ink-30);
  border-radius: 0; padding: 6px 0 8px;
  background: transparent; color: var(--ink);
  font: italic 17px/1.3 var(--serif);
}
.discover-search input::placeholder { color: var(--ink-30); }
.discover-search input:focus { outline: none; border-color: var(--plum); }
.discover-filters { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 7px; }
.discover-filters button {
  border: 1px solid var(--hairline); border-radius: 999px;
  background: transparent; color: var(--ink-60); cursor: pointer;
  padding: 8px 13px;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .13em; text-transform: uppercase;
  transition: color .25s ease, background-color .25s ease, border-color .25s ease;
}
.discover-filters button span { margin-left: 4px; color: inherit; opacity: .7; }
.discover-filters button:hover, .discover-filters button:focus-visible { border-color: var(--plum); color: var(--plum); }
.discover-filters button.is-active { border-color: var(--plum); background: var(--plum); color: var(--paper); }
.discover-count {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: .16em;
  text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45); white-space: nowrap;
}
.discover-results { padding: 0 var(--pad-x); }
.discovery-region { margin-bottom: clamp(56px, 7vw, 96px); scroll-margin-top: 20px; border-top: 1px solid var(--ink-30); }
.discovery-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
.discovery-card {
  min-width: 0; padding: clamp(28px, 3vw, 42px) clamp(22px, 3vw, 40px) clamp(32px, 4vw, 48px) 0;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline);
}
.discovery-card:nth-child(even) { border-left: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft); padding-left: clamp(22px, 3vw, 40px); padding-right: 0; }
.discovery-card-top { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; min-height: 22px; }
.discovery-num, .discovery-pref, .discovery-priority {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .22em; text-transform: uppercase;
}
.discovery-num { color: var(--plum); }
.discovery-pref { color: var(--ink-45); }
.discovery-priority {
  margin-left: auto; padding: 3px 7px; border-radius: 999px;
  background: var(--plum-ghost); color: var(--plum); letter-spacing: .14em;
}
.discovery-photo { margin: 16px 0 0; }
.discovery-photo img {
  display: block; width: 100%; height: auto;
  aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; object-fit: cover;
  border: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
}
.discovery-photo.is-archive img { aspect-ratio: auto; }
.discovery-photo figcaption {
  display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline;
  gap: 6px 16px; flex-wrap: wrap;
  margin-top: 7px;
}
.discovery-photo .dp-sub { font-style: italic; font-size: 13px; color: var(--ink-60); }
.discovery-photo .dp-credit {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 8px; font-weight: 400;
  letter-spacing: .13em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  white-space: nowrap;
}
.discovery-photo .dp-credit a {
  color: inherit; text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline); padding-bottom: 1px;
}
.discovery-photo .dp-credit a:hover, .discovery-photo .dp-credit a:focus-visible { color: var(--plum); border-color: var(--plum); }

.discovery-title { margin: 14px 0 17px; }
.discovery-title h4 { font-size: clamp(22px, 2vw, 28px); font-weight: 500; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2; }
.discovery-title span { display: block; margin-top: 6px; font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: .2em; color: var(--ink-60); }
.discovery-meta { display: grid; gap: 8px; margin-bottom: 17px; }
.discovery-meta div { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 84px 1fr; gap: 12px; }
.discovery-meta dt {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 8.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
}
.discovery-meta dd { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 11px; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--ink-60); }
.dd-stay a {
  color: var(--plum); text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(87, 71, 104, .3); padding-bottom: 1px;
}
.dd-stay a:hover, .dd-stay a:focus-visible { border-color: var(--plum); }
.dd-stay .stay-keys { margin-left: 5px; vertical-align: -1px; }
.dd-stay .mkey { width: 11px; height: 11px; }
.dd-stay .stay-guide { margin-left: 5px; font-size: 7px !important; }
.dd-stay .stay-level { margin-left: 5px; font-size: 7px; padding: 1px 5px; }
.dd-stay-note {
  display: block; margin-top: 4px; max-width: 42em;
  font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 12.5px; line-height: 1.5; color: var(--ink-60);
}
.dd-sep { color: var(--ink-30); }
.discovery-summary { color: var(--ink-80); font-size: 15.5px; line-height: 1.68; }
.discovery-sources { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px 18px; margin-top: 20px; }
.discovery-sources a {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--plum);
  text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(87,71,104,.3); padding-bottom: 2px;
}
.discovery-sources a:hover, .discovery-sources a:focus-visible { border-color: var(--plum); }
.discover-empty {
  margin: 0 var(--pad-x) 80px; padding: 32px;
  border: 1px dashed var(--hairline); text-align: center; font-style: italic; color: var(--ink-60);
}
.micro-destinations {
  margin: clamp(62px, 8vw, 110px) var(--pad-x) 0;
  padding: clamp(34px, 4vw, 54px);
  background: var(--plum-deep); color: #E9E4ED; border-radius: 8px 8px 0 0;
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(220px, .8fr) minmax(0, 2fr); gap: clamp(34px, 5vw, 72px);
}
.micro-intro h3 { margin: 12px 0 14px; font-size: clamp(25px, 2.4vw, 34px); font-weight: 400; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.15; }
.micro-intro > p:last-child { color: rgba(233,228,237,.72); font-size: 15px; }
.micro-destinations .eyebrow { color: rgba(233,228,237,.5); }
.micro-list { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
.micro-card { padding: 22px 24px 24px 0; border-top: 1px solid rgba(233,228,237,.16); }
.micro-card:nth-child(even) { border-left: 1px solid rgba(233,228,237,.1); padding-left: 24px; padding-right: 0; }
.micro-place { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 8.5px; letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: rgba(233,228,237,.46); }
.micro-place span { font-family: var(--jp); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: none; margin-right: 9px; color: rgba(233,228,237,.72); }
.micro-card h4 { margin: 7px 0 8px; font-size: 19px; font-style: italic; font-weight: 400; }
.micro-card > p:last-of-type { color: rgba(233,228,237,.7); font-size: 13.5px; line-height: 1.55; }
.micro-card .discovery-sources { margin-top: 11px; }
.micro-card .discovery-sources a { color: #D8CDDF; border-color: rgba(216,205,223,.35); }

/* ---------- the inn register ----------
   a nationwide ledger: grade seals 甲乙丙, drawn bath marks,
   hairline rows — the register of inns whose bath makes the stay */
.register { border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline); }

.register-census {
  display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: flex-end; gap: 22px 46px;
  margin: 0 var(--pad-x) clamp(28px, 3.6vw, 42px);
  padding: 22px 0;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline);
}
.register-census div b {
  display: block; font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .26em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
  margin-bottom: 4px;
}
.register-census div span { font-size: 25px; line-height: 1; }
.register-census > p {
  margin-left: auto; max-width: 34em;
  font-size: 13.5px; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--ink-60);
}

.register-tools {
  margin: 0 var(--pad-x) 20px;
  padding: 20px 22px;
  border: 1px solid var(--hairline);
  border-radius: 8px;
  background: rgba(251, 250, 247, .86);
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(230px, 1fr) minmax(0, 2.4fr);
  align-items: start;
  gap: 16px 28px;
}
.register-search { align-self: end; }
.register-filter-rows { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 9px; }
.register-tools .discover-filters button span:not([lang]) { margin-left: 4px; opacity: .7; }
.register-tools .discover-filters button [lang="ja"] {
  font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 10.5px; letter-spacing: .14em;
  text-transform: none; margin-right: 2px;
}
.register-tools .discover-count { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
.fmark { width: 15px; height: 14px; display: inline-block; vertical-align: -3px; margin-right: 6px; }
.fmark path { fill: none; stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: 1.6; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }

.register-key {
  margin: 0 var(--pad-x) clamp(30px, 4vw, 46px);
  display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 8px 24px;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 400;
  letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
}
.register-key span { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 7px; }

.reg-grade {
  flex: none; width: 22px; height: 22px;
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;
  font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500; font-size: 12px; line-height: 1;
  color: var(--plum); border: 1px solid rgba(87, 71, 104, .38);
  letter-spacing: 0; text-transform: none;
}
.reg-grade.g-a { background: var(--plum); border-color: var(--plum); color: var(--paper); }
.reg-grade.g-c { border-style: dashed; border-color: var(--ink-30); color: var(--ink-60); }

.register-body { padding: 0 var(--pad-x); }
.reg-region { border-top: 1px solid var(--ink-30); padding-top: 16px; margin-bottom: clamp(44px, 5.4vw, 72px); }
.reg-region-head { display: flex; align-items: baseline; gap: 16px; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-bottom: 4px; }
.reg-region-head h3 { font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500; font-size: clamp(21px, 2vw, 26px); letter-spacing: .24em; }
.reg-region-en {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-60);
}
.reg-region-count {
  margin-left: auto; font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px;
  letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
}

.reg-entry {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(72px, 96px) minmax(0, 1fr);
  gap: 10px clamp(18px, 2.6vw, 44px);
  border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline);
  padding: 24px 0 28px;
  scroll-margin-top: 20px;
}
.reg-entry:first-of-type { border-top: none; }
.reg-kanji {
  font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500;
  writing-mode: vertical-rl;
  font-size: clamp(22px, 2vw, 27px);
  letter-spacing: .18em; line-height: 1.15;
  justify-self: start;
}
.reg-place-name { display: flex; align-items: baseline; gap: 8px 14px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.reg-place-name b { font-size: clamp(20px, 1.9vw, 25px); font-weight: 500; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2; }
.reg-place-tags {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-45);
}
.reg-why { font-style: italic; font-size: 15.5px; color: var(--plum); margin-top: 3px; }
.reg-scope {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; letter-spacing: .05em;
  color: var(--ink-45); margin-top: 6px;
}

.reg-inns { list-style: none; margin-top: 14px; }
.reg-inn {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 30px minmax(0, 1.55fr) minmax(190px, 1fr);
  gap: 4px 20px;
  align-items: start;
  padding: 12px 0 13px;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
}
.reg-inn-name { font-size: 16.5px; line-height: 1.45; }
.reg-inn-name a {
  color: inherit; font-style: italic; font-weight: 500; text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--hairline); padding-bottom: 1px;
}
.reg-inn-name a:hover, .reg-inn-name a:focus-visible { color: var(--plum); border-color: var(--plum); }
.reg-mich { text-decoration: none; margin-left: 2px; }
.reg-mich .stay-keys { margin-left: 6px; }
.reg-mich:hover .mkey circle, .reg-mich:hover .mkey path,
.reg-mich:focus-visible .mkey circle, .reg-mich:focus-visible .mkey path { stroke: var(--wisteria); }
.reg-mich:hover .stay-sel, .reg-mich:focus-visible .stay-sel { color: var(--plum); }
.reg-inn-note { font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--ink-60); margin-top: 2px; max-width: 36em; }
.reg-bath-link {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 8.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--plum);
  text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(87, 71, 104, .3);
  padding-bottom: 1px; margin-left: 9px; white-space: nowrap;
}
.reg-bath-link:hover, .reg-bath-link:focus-visible { border-color: var(--plum); }
.reg-inn-tags {
  list-style: none;
  display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-content: start; justify-content: flex-end;
  gap: 6px 14px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: right;
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-60);
  line-height: 1.6;
}
.reg-inn-tags .rt-fmt { color: var(--ink-80); white-space: nowrap; }
.reg-inn-tags .rt-tattoo { color: var(--plum); }

.register-empty { margin-bottom: 80px; }

.register-colophon {
  margin: clamp(30px, 4vw, 54px) var(--pad-x) clamp(76px, 9vw, 120px);
  padding-top: 28px;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink-30);
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(200px, .8fr) minmax(0, 2fr);
  gap: clamp(26px, 4vw, 64px);
}
.register-colophon h3 { margin-top: 12px; font-size: clamp(22px, 2vw, 28px); font-weight: 400; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2; }
.register-colophon-body p { font-size: 14.5px; line-height: 1.7; color: var(--ink-80); max-width: 46em; margin-bottom: 12px; }
.register-colophon-body .discovery-sources { margin-top: 16px; }

/* ---------- etiquette ---------- */
.manner-grid {
  list-style: none;
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr);
  gap: 0;
  padding: 0 var(--pad-x) clamp(80px, 9vw, 130px);
}
.manner-grid li {
  border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline);
  padding: 30px clamp(18px, 2vw, 34px) 34px 0;
}
.manner-grid li:nth-child(3n+2) { padding-left: clamp(18px, 2vw, 34px); }
.manner-grid li:nth-child(3n)   { padding-left: clamp(18px, 2vw, 34px); }
.manner-grid h3 { font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500; font-size: 24px; letter-spacing: .3em; }
.manner-en {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--plum);
  margin: 8px 0 12px;
}
.manner-grid p { font-size: 15.5px; color: var(--ink-80); max-width: 30em; }

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
.site-foot {
  max-width: 1560px;
  margin: 0 auto clamp(10px, 1.6vw, 22px);
  width: calc(100% - clamp(16px, 3vw, 44px));
  background: var(--plum-deep);
  color: #CBC3D2;
  border-radius: 12px;
  padding: clamp(56px, 6vw, 90px) var(--pad-x) clamp(30px, 3vw, 44px);
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(180px, 280px) 1fr;
  gap: clamp(36px, 5vw, 90px);
}
.foot-brand { display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: flex-start; gap: 14px; }
.foot-enso { width: 74px; }
.foot-enso path { stroke: rgba(235, 230, 240, .75); stroke-width: 1.1; }
.foot-mark { font-family: var(--jp); font-weight: 500; writing-mode: vertical-rl; font-size: 19px; letter-spacing: .4em; color: #EDE9F1; }
.foot-sub { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: rgba(203, 195, 210, .7); }

.foot-cols { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.2fr .8fr 1.2fr; gap: clamp(28px, 4vw, 64px); align-content: start; }
.foot-col h4 {
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: .3em; text-transform: uppercase; color: rgba(203, 195, 210, .65);
  margin-bottom: 18px;
}
.foot-col h4 span { font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: .24em; margin-right: 8px; color: rgba(230, 225, 236, .8); }
.foot-corridor { padding: 7px 0; border-top: 1px solid rgba(235, 230, 240, .12); }
.foot-corridor b { display: block; font-weight: 400; font-family: var(--jp); font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: .16em; color: #E6E1EC; }
.foot-corridor span { font-family: var(--util); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: .08em; color: rgba(203, 195, 210, .65); }
.foot-nav { list-style: none; }
.foot-nav li { padding: 7px 0; border-top: 1px solid rgba(235, 230, 240, .12); }
.foot-nav a { color: #E6E1EC; text-decoration: none; font-size: 15.5px; font-style: italic; }
.foot-nav a span { font-family: var(--jp); font-style: normal; font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: .2em; color: rgba(203, 195, 210, .6); margin-left: 8px; }
.foot-nav a:hover, .foot-nav a:focus-visible { color: #fff; }
.foot-note p { font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.7; color: rgba(203, 195, 210, .85); margin-bottom: 12px; }
.foot-credit { font-style: italic; color: rgba(203, 195, 210, .6); }
.foot-copy {
  grid-column: 1 / -1;
  margin-top: clamp(30px, 4vw, 56px);
  padding-top: 20px;
  border-top: 1px solid rgba(235, 230, 240, .12);
  font-family: var(--util); font-size: 9.5px; letter-spacing: .24em; text-transform: uppercase;
  color: rgba(203, 195, 210, .55);
}
.foot-copy span { font-family: var(--jp); letter-spacing: .3em; }

/* ---------- reveal on scroll ---------- */
.reveal { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(26px); transition: opacity 1s cubic-bezier(.2,.65,.25,1), transform 1s cubic-bezier(.2,.65,.25,1); }
.reveal.in { opacity: 1; transform: none; }

/* ---------- responsive ---------- */
@media (max-width: 1120px) {
  .map-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .map-pane { position: static; order: -1; margin-inline: auto; }
  .route-card { position: sticky; top: auto; bottom: 12px; }
  .map-side { display: flex; flex-direction: column-reverse; }
  .onsen-list { margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 26px; }
  .dossier { grid-template-columns: minmax(70px, 90px) 1fr; }
  .d-rail {
    grid-column: 2; border-left: none; padding-left: 0;
    border-top: 1px solid var(--hairline-soft); padding-top: 24px;
    flex-direction: row; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 34px;
  }
  .d-rail > * { flex: 1 1 180px; }
  .d-maplink { align-self: center; }
  .discover-tools { grid-template-columns: minmax(230px, 1fr) 2fr; }
  .discover-count { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
  .register-tools { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .reg-inn { grid-template-columns: 30px minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .reg-inn-tags { grid-column: 2; justify-content: flex-start; text-align: left; padding-top: 2px; }
}

@media (max-width: 860px) {
  .hero { grid-template-columns: 1fr; min-height: 0; padding-top: 40px; }
  .hero-title { order: -1; padding: 20px 0 30px; }
  .hero-title h1 { font-size: clamp(68px, 17vw, 104px); }
  .hero-foot { position: static; margin-top: 40px; max-width: none; }
  .manner-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .manner-grid li { padding-left: 0 !important; }
  .site-foot { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .foot-cols { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .foot-mark { writing-mode: horizontal-tb; }
  .discovery-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .discovery-card, .discovery-card:nth-child(even) { border-left: none; padding-left: 0; padding-right: 0; }
  .micro-destinations { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .register-census > p { margin-left: 0; }
  .register-colophon { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 10px; }
}

@media (max-width: 620px) {
  body { font-size: 16px; }
  .dossier { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 20px; }
  .d-activity-list, .d-activity-list.is-2, .d-activity-list.is-1 { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .d-side { flex-direction: row; align-items: baseline; }
  .d-kanji { writing-mode: horizontal-tb; font-size: 34px; }
  .d-pref { writing-mode: horizontal-tb; }
  .d-rail { grid-column: 1; flex-direction: column; gap: 24px; }
  .site-nav a span { display: none; }
  .sec-head { flex-direction: row; }
  .rc-name .rc-kanji { font-size: 24px; }
  .rc-name .rc-en { font-size: 18px; }
  .route-card { height: 360px; }
  .ol-en { display: none; }
  .ol-row { grid-template-columns: 34px 1fr auto; }
  .discover-tools { grid-template-columns: 1fr; padding: 18px; }
  .discover-count { grid-column: auto; }
  .discover-filters { gap: 6px; }
  .discover-filters button { padding: 7px 10px; }
  .discovery-meta div { grid-template-columns: 72px 1fr; }
  .micro-destinations { margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0; border-radius: 0; }
  .micro-list { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .micro-card:nth-child(even) { border-left: none; padding-left: 0; }
  .reg-entry { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 6px; }
  .reg-kanji { writing-mode: horizontal-tb; font-size: 20px; }
  .reg-region-count { margin-left: 0; flex-basis: 100%; }
  .reg-inn { grid-template-columns: 26px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 4px 12px; }
  .register-tools { padding: 18px; }
}

/* ---------- reduced motion ---------- */
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  .rise { animation: none; opacity: 1; transform: none; }
  .hs { animation: none; opacity: .2; }
  .reveal { transition: none; opacity: 1; transform: none; }
  .onsen-marker.is-active .om-steam path { animation: none; opacity: 1; }
  .onsen-marker.is-active .om-pulse { animation: none; }
  .ovl { transition: none !important; stroke-dashoffset: 0 !important; }
}